Restaurateur David Carter hosts a lazy poolside lunch in Greece

Island life is familiar to David Carter, who was born and raised in Barbados. Of the various extremes the restaurateur has encountered – beaches and cities; demanding kitchens and more relaxed ones – Carter has stayed true to his roots, channelling the easy hospitality of his Caribbean island into some of London’s most popular restaurants (Smokestak, Manteca, Agora and Michelin-starred Oma).

There’s a word in Greek, ‘philoxenia’ – people are almost indebted to show you around

Today, on the poolside terrace of Greek restaurant Lygaria at Kea Retreat, he looks right at home. As he says: “There’s a word in Greek, ‘philoxenia’ – people are almost indebted to show you around. It’s one of the reasons I fell in love with this part of the world.” Carter first visited Kea Retreat, named after the island it sits on, in 2024. It is run by brothers Yonatan and Uriel Eshet, who first came to Kea with their parents more than 30 years ago. Later they’ll host paying guests for a collaborative dinner. Lunch is a test run for a few friends, who have hopped on the ferry from nearby Athens, and family – parents, partners and Ned, Carter’s six-year-old son.

Prep began at seven o’clock with a visit to a local farmer to source almonds, honey and “various types of wild oregano”. Kea doesn’t have access to the same “bounty” as the mainland – “and that’s a good thing”, says Carter. “You become more focused on what you’re working with.” Nothing has been pre-planned: all depends on what the island has to offer that morning. Today that means bluefin tuna belly, karavides bisque and fennel koulouri, a Greek bread. The menu is a joint effort between Carter and Uriel.

With the beach only 100 yards away, everyone – chefs and guests – spends much of the day in the water, followed by a snooze. There’s a slice of Kea in Carter’s approach to all his restaurants: “We’re there to make you have a good time and forget the world for two hours.”